Where the neighbourhood actually buys its morning bread, and what to order.

Our hosts' short list for dinner, from a counter lunch place to a table that takes no reservations.

How to see the museum quarter in a day without rushing, and when it costs nothing.

Behind the heavy street doors are passages, workshops and gardens that anyone may enter.

A flat two-hour walk along the water, with benches, a swimming spot and an ice cream kiosk.

Trams, bikes, night buses and the walk from the central station, explained in one page.